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Neon is an honest Windows performance app that safely tunes your PC for more FPS and snappier responsiveness — no fake claims, every change is reversible.

Neon runs on Windows 10 and 11 (64-bit). If you hit any issue on your setup, contact support below and the team will sort it out.

Yes, Neon supports both Windows 10 and Windows 11. If something behaves oddly on your build, contact support below.

Updates roll out through the app — open Neon and it'll offer the latest version. Patch notes are posted in the Changelog and announced in the Discord.

Revert all tweaks in-app first (one click), then uninstall normally from Windows Settings → Apps. Need a hand? Contact support below.

Not at all. It's one button to optimize and one button to undo. No commands, no config files, no risk — Neon does the heavy lifting and shows you exactly what changed.

Two plans: Starter $4.99 (14 days) and Lifetime $24.99 (forever, all future updates). Both are single-PC and paid in crypto (300+ options). 14-day refund on unredeemed keys.

There's no free version, but the Starter key is $4.99 for 14 days of the full app — every feature unlocked — and unredeemed keys are refundable within 14 days.

An unredeemed key can be refunded within 14 days. Once a key is activated on a PC it can't be refunded. For refund questions, contact support below with your purchase details.

Keys are delivered to your dashboard the moment your crypto payment is confirmed — usually within minutes. If yours hasn't arrived, contact support below with your payment proof.

Neon is crypto only — 300+ coins supported at checkout (BTC, ETH, USDC and more), and your key is delivered instantly after the payment confirms. No cards or PayPal.

Instantly — your key appears in your dashboard the moment your crypto payment is confirmed. If it ever stalls, contact support below with your payment proof.

The installer isn't code-signed yet, so Windows SmartScreen shows a "Windows protected your PC" notice. Click "More info" → "Run anyway". Neon verifies every update's checksum, so you always get the genuine file.

Grab a key from the dashboard after paying (or claim one you already have), then paste it into the app to activate. If a key doesn't work, contact support below with your order details.

No — a key binds to the PC where it's first activated and can't be moved or shared. One key, one PC, forever. For multi-PC options, contact support below.

Double-check you copied the full key (NEON-XXXXX-XXXXX-XXXXX). If it still fails, contact support below with your order details and the team will sort it fast.

Yes — Neon is safe. It only applies documented, reversible Windows tweaks and never touches your files or installs anything shady. Every change can be undone.

Yes — every change Neon makes is reversible. You can restore your previous settings any time from within the app, with one click.

No. Neon is a system optimizer — it does not inject into games, modify game files, or touch anti-cheat. It only tunes Windows.

Nope — everything suggested lives in Windows, drivers, and in-game menus, fully reversible and hands-off your game files. It never touches game code or anything protective; it just tidies your PC so your hardware can do its job.

Leave these alone: Windows Update (security!), Windows Defender or your antivirus, audio services, your GPU control panel, and core system services you can't identify. If a guide tells you to kill something "for FPS" and you don't recognize it, that's your cue to skip it.

Most viral "god-tier registry tweaks" do nothing measurable and a few can quietly break things. Stick to the built-in Settings toggles — same intent, zero foot-guns, easy to undo. If a fix can't be reversed in two clicks, it's not worth recommending.

Safe: built-in Settings toggles, startup trims, power plans, driver updates — all one-click reversible. Risky: deleting system files, editing the registry blind, killing services you can't name, or anything a stranger online swears is "100% safe." When unsure, stay in Settings.

Hard no. Defender's overhead is tiny and going unprotected for a couple of theoretical frames is a terrible trade. If a game stutters during a scan, schedule scans for off-hours instead — keep the shield up.

Use the Reset link on the sign-in page — you verify ownership with your account email and a license key. If you can't recover access, contact support below.

From your dashboard's Privacy & account section you can export everything we hold about you as JSON, or delete your account (with a 14-day grace period to change your mind).

Search this page for an instant answer, send us a message with the contact form below, or join the Discord community for live help. We'll get back to you as soon as we can.

This is an automated support assistant — it matches your question against Neon's curated knowledge base and shows the best answer instantly. When it isn't sure, it points you to the human contact form or the Discord, so you always reach a person.

Use the contact form below — it reaches the Neon team directly (include your account email and what's happening). For live chat, join the Discord community. Ticket and email support are expanding soon.

Neon focuses on real, measurable wins (latency, background bloat, FPS). Results vary by hardware, but it sticks to honest, reversible optimizations — no snake oil.

Neon applies a curated set of documented Windows tweaks — trimming background services, tuning power/latency settings, and clearing bloat — all reversible, nothing destructive.

Neon tunes Windows itself (latency, background bloat, power/scheduling), so the gains carry across every game — not just one. Results vary by hardware, but it never touches game files or anti-cheat.

It can, especially if you're tight on RAM or CPU. Closing Chrome with 40 tabs, Discord overlays, and chat apps frees up memory and cores for the game. Don't expect miracles on a beefy rig, but a cluttered machine feels it instantly.

Yep, on laptops especially. Set it to High performance (or Balanced on modern CPUs that manage themselves well) so Windows stops throttling your clocks to save juice. It's a one-click, fully reversible toggle in Power Options.

In your NVIDIA/AMD control panel, set Power Management to *Prefer maximum performance* and Low Latency Mode on. Turn off heavy global filters you don't need. These are vendor settings — totally honest, totally reversible, no game files touched.

Always. A fresh GPU driver often fixes stutters and unlocks performance for new titles — vendors literally ship game-ready updates. Grab it straight from NVIDIA, AMD, or Intel, never sketchy third-party sites.

FPS is the *average* frames per second; frametime is how long each individual frame takes in milliseconds. A steady 16.6ms frametime feels buttery, while spiky frametimes feel like jank even at the same FPS number. Smoothness lives in frametime, not the FPS counter.

Because results vary by hardware — CPU, GPU, RAM speed, storage, thermals, and even resolution all change the math. Same settings on different rigs is never apples-to-apples. Optimize for *your* machine, not someone else's screenshot.

Exclusive fullscreen usually gives the lowest latency and best raw FPS, while borderless makes alt-tabbing instant but adds a touch of overhead. Competitive? Fullscreen. Multitasker with two monitors? Borderless is worth the tiny cost.

V-Sync kills screen tearing but adds input lag and can cap your frames. If you have G-Sync/FreeSync, leave V-Sync off in-game and let the variable refresh do the work. No adaptive sync? It's a tradeoff: smoothness vs snappiness.

Variable refresh rate syncs your monitor's refresh to your real FPS, so you get tear-free frames *without* the input lag of plain V-Sync. Enable it in your GPU panel and your monitor's OSD — it's the closest thing to free smoothness.

Absolutely — fewer pixels means less GPU work, so dropping resolution is one of the most reliable FPS gains there is. The catch: things look softer. Many folks prefer keeping native res and tuning heavy settings instead.

Render scale controls the internal resolution the game renders before upscaling to your display. Drop it below 100% for a big GPU breather, raise it for sharpness. It's the sweet-spot dial when native res is too heavy but you like your monitor's clarity.

That's shader compilation. The game builds and caches shaders the first time it sees new effects, which hitches, then runs clean once they're stored. Let it cook through one session — modern engines pre-build these to reduce the pain.

Only if it's *corrupted* — usually after a driver or game update causing weird stutter. Clearing it forces a one-time rebuild (expect early hitching), then it's smooth again. Don't clear it for no reason or you just re-pay the compile tax.

It's the chain from click to pixel: your mouse polling, frame queue, V-Sync, render time, and monitor response all add milliseconds. Lower latency mode, uncapped or G-Sync frames, and fullscreen all trim the chain.

High average FPS can still hide frametime spikes from background tasks, shader hitches, thermal throttling, or a drive that's busy. Stutter is a consistency problem, not a frame-count problem — chase the spikes, not the average.

Indirectly, yes. Fewer startup programs means less stuff hogging RAM, CPU, and disk while you play — open Task Manager's Startup tab and disable the junk you don't need. It won't add raw FPS, but it removes drag and background stutter sources.

Often yes. Capping a few frames below your monitor's refresh keeps frametimes consistent and stops the GPU from running hot and spiky. Pair it with G-Sync for tear-free, low-lag smoothness that feels better than an uncapped mess.

A little — in-game overlays hook your renderer and can add latency or rare stutters. If you're chasing every millisecond, disable the ones you don't actively use. Casual play? Leave them; the cost is usually tiny.

Shadows, anti-aliasing, volumetrics/fog, and view distance are usually the biggest FPS hogs for the least visual loss. Drop those from Ultra to High first — you'll often gain a chunk of frames and barely notice the difference.

Generally yes — Game Mode tells Windows to prioritize your game and hold back background updates and indexing while you play. The effect is modest on strong rigs but it's free, built-in, and easily toggled off if you dislike it.

Upscalers render the frame at a lower internal resolution then intelligently reconstruct it to your display size — big GPU savings for near-native looks. Set Quality mode first; only drop lower if you need the extra frames more than the sharpness.

Your refresh rate doesn't add FPS, but a 144Hz+ panel can *display* the frames you're already making, so high FPS finally feels high. Make sure Windows is actually set to the panel's full refresh in Display settings — people forget and run 60Hz on a 144Hz screen.

Slow boots are usually a parade of apps all launching at once. Open Task Manager → Startup apps and switch off the stuff you don't need the second you log in (launchers, updaters, chat apps) — flip them back on anytime. Reboot and feel the difference.

Safe to switch off: game launchers, Spotify, Discord-style chat, printer helpers, cloud-sync nags, and anything labeled "updater". Leave audio drivers, your graphics control panel, and security tools alone. None of this is permanent — Startup tab toggles flip right back.

Honestly? Very few. Trim user-level background apps (chat, store helpers, sync tools) rather than core Windows services — those keep your system stable. If you must, only touch clearly optional vendor bloat, and note what you changed so you can undo it. Stability first.

Head to Settings → Privacy & security → Diagnostics & feedback and set diagnostic data to the minimum, then dial back tailored/ad personalization. It's a clean, reversible privacy trim — no registry surgery required. Lighter footprint, same Windows.

Be real: telemetry isn't your FPS villain — it's tiny. Turn it down for privacy, not frames. The real wins are trimming startup clutter, updating GPU drivers, and closing background hogs. The truth beats a myth.

It lets your GPU manage some of its own scheduling, which can shave a little latency on supported cards. Find it under Settings → Display → Graphics → Default graphics settings. Try it on, play a session, and if anything feels worse just flip it back. Test, don't trust blindly.

Ultimate Performance is basically High Performance with the brakes fully off — fine on a plugged-in desktop, overkill on a laptop where it just cooks the battery. For most people High performance is plenty. Either way it's one click to revert.

Open Settings → System → Storage → Temporary files, tick the safe stuff (temp files, thumbnails, old update leftovers) and clear it — built-in and totally safe. Skip third-party "one-click cleaner" tools that promise miracles; Windows' own cleanup is the trustworthy move.

Nope — temp files are scratch paper Windows can recreate on demand. Using the built-in Storage → Temporary files cleaner is safe; just don't go manually nuking random system folders you found in a sketchy video. Stick to the official cleaner and you're golden.

Every tab is basically its own little program, so 40 tabs = 40 memory mouths. Before a session, close the tabs you don't need or use a tab-suspender extension. Your game would love to have that RAM back.

Yeah, give it a reboot. A lot of tweaks — driver-level options, startup changes, GPU scheduling — only fully kick in after a restart, and it clears out stale background junk too. Skipping the reboot is how people "prove" a tweak didn't work.

For most modern gaming rigs they're neck and neck, and 11 has nice extras like better window-snapping and DirectStorage support. On older hardware some folks prefer 10's lighter feel. Pick what runs smooth for *you* — there's no universal winner.

A light pass once a month is plenty: review new startup apps, clear temp files, and update your GPU driver. You don't need to "optimize" daily — that's how people break things chasing tiny numbers. Set a reminder, do a quick sweep, go play.

Mostly they bundle stuff Windows already does for free, then nag you to pay. A lot of them "clean" things you didn't want cleaned. Stick to the built-in Storage and Startup tools — same result, no subscription, no surprises.

The quiet RAM-and-CPU hogs: browsers with a ton of tabs, video editors, streaming/recording tools you're not using, and chatty overlays. Check Task Manager sorted by memory and shut the loud ones. Your game gets the whole stage.

On a weak or older machine, trimming animations under Performance Options can feel a touch snappier on the desktop — modest, but real, and fully reversible. On a strong rig you won't notice. Try it, keep it if you like the feel.

Two-parter, both free: trim your startup apps so boot isn't a stampede, and keep your GPU driver current. Those two do more than any sketchy "tweak pack" you'll find online — and neither one risks your system. Start there.

Yes — keeping GPU drivers current often brings real optimizations for new games and squashes bugs. Grab them straight from your GPU maker's official app/site, and if a brand-new driver acts up, a clean reinstall of the previous stable one usually settles it.

It happens! Roll back to the last stable driver — uninstall the new one cleanly, then reinstall the previous version from the official source. Driver updates are usually great, but new games and new drivers occasionally have a spat. Go back a step, breathe, retry.

Start cheap and reversible: close background apps, update drivers, tweak in-game settings, and check temps. If FPS is still rock-bottom with everything optimized and temps fine, your hardware is likely the real ceiling. Rule out the free fixes before blaming the silicon.

Sudden dips often point to thermal throttling (temps climbing as you play), a background app waking up, or hitting a heavy scene. Watch your temps and CPU/GPU usage with an overlay — if temps spike right as FPS falls, cooling is your culprit. Catch it live to fix it right.

Use a monitoring overlay that shows CPU/GPU usage, temps, and FPS right on screen — many GPU apps include one built in. Watching live tells you instantly whether you're GPU-bound, CPU-bound, or cooking. Numbers on screen beat guessing every time.

Even older rigs usually have some headroom from clean drivers, trimmed background apps, smart settings, and good temps. Optimization can't add cores or VRAM, but it can claw back frames you're leaving on the table. Squeeze every free frame before declaring it ancient.

High average, choppy feel? That's usually weak 1% lows — brief frame-time hiccups from things like RAM bandwidth, a background process, or texture streaming off a slow drive. Smoothness lives in consistency, not just the big number. Chase steady frames, not just high ones.

Absolutely — this assistant can help you diagnose and optimize: temps, drivers, background bloat, smart settings, and spotting your real bottleneck so you stop guessing. It won't fake benchmarks or promise magic numbers — describe your symptoms (or send us a message below) and let's get your rig running its honest best.

More than people think. Too little RAM forces Windows to swap to disk (instant stutter), and faster RAM with XMP/EXPO enabled feeds hungry CPUs better. 16GB is a fine floor today; enabling your memory profile in BIOS is free performance.

Quite possibly. When a CPU or GPU runs too hot, it throttles clocks to protect itself, and your FPS quietly tanks mid-session. Clean the dust, improve airflow, and watch temps — cool silicon holds its boost clocks longer.

It can. An SSD loads textures and streams open-world assets fast enough to avoid traversal stutter that an HDD chokes on. It won't raise your steady-state FPS, but it kills a whole category of hitching in modern games.

Often yes. If your GPU usage is low while frames stay capped, the CPU can't feed it fast enough — common at lower resolutions or in CPU-heavy games with lots of physics and NPCs. Raising resolution or settings can actually even the load and feel smoother.

Not automatically — unused RAM is wasted RAM, so Windows fills it on purpose. It only hurts when you're maxed *and* swapping hard mid-game. If that's you, the usual culprit is having a hundred things open at once. Close the clutter before you blame the hardware.

Heat is the silent FPS killer. Make sure vents aren't blocked, set your power profile sensibly (Ultimate mode on a laptop just bakes it), and blow out the dust now and then. A cooling pad and a clean fan beat any magic software "booster."

Open your in-game performance overlay and watch usage: if your GPU sits near 99% while the CPU coasts, the GPU is the limit (lower settings/resolution to gain FPS). If the CPU pegs high while the GPU lounges around, the CPU is holding you back. Find who's slammed.

Honestly? 16GB is the comfy baseline now, and many modern titles breathe easier with it. 8GB still boots and plays, but background apps + a chunky game can leave you swapping to disk and stuttering. If you're juggling Discord, a browser with 40 tabs, and a game, 16GB is the upgrade that just feels nice.

It matters more than people expect, especially on AMD chips — faster RAM can nudge your 1% lows so the game feels smoother, not just higher average FPS. But dual-channel (two sticks) usually beats one fast stick, so populate both slots before chasing exotic speeds.

A lone stick runs in single-channel — it's like a one-lane road for data. Add a matching second stick and you unlock dual-channel, roughly doubling memory bandwidth, which games and integrated graphics absolutely love. Two lanes, less traffic jam.

Higher FPS? No — that's your CPU/GPU's job. Faster loading and less in-world stutter? Absolutely. Moving a game from a spinning HDD to an SSD slashes load screens and texture pop-in dramatically. It won't win you the match, but you'll be in it while others stare at a loading bar.

A mechanical HDD is the slowpoke for game loading — even a cheap SATA SSD is a massive jump, and an NVMe drive is faster still. If you can only move a few games, put your most-played one on the SSD first.

When your CPU or GPU gets too hot, it deliberately slows itself down to avoid damage — that's thermal throttling, and it shows up as sudden FPS drops mid-session. Fixes: clean the dust, improve case airflow, and make sure fans actually spin up under load. Keep it cool, keep the frames.

Roughly every 3–6 months, more if you've got carpet, pets, or a smoker nearby. Power down, unplug, and blow dust off fans and heatsinks with short bursts of compressed air (hold the fan blades still so they don't over-spin). A clean PC runs cooler and quieter.

A fan curve maps fan speed to temperature — so fans stay quiet when idle and ramp up when things heat up. Most motherboard software or your GPU app lets you tune it; a slightly more aggressive curve trades a little noise for cooler, more stable performance.

Some fan ramp-up under load is totally normal — but a constant jet-takeoff roar usually means high temps from dust buildup or a too-aggressive fan curve. Clean the dust, check airflow, and tune the curve so it only screams when it truly needs to.

If your PC can push the frames, yes — 144Hz feels noticeably smoother than 60Hz, especially in fast shooters. But the monitor only helps if your FPS actually climbs above 60; a 240Hz screen showing 50 FPS is just a fancy 50. Match the screen to the frames you can hit.

Two usual suspects: Windows/your GPU may still be set to 60Hz (change it in display settings → refresh rate), or your FPS just isn't reaching above 60. Set the Hz correctly first, then make sure your in-game frames actually clear that bar. Half the fix is one settings toggle.

Exact safe limits vary by chip, but as a rule of thumb you want to stay comfortably below the throttle point under load (your monitoring app will flag it). Brief spikes are fine; sustained near-max temps mean it's time to clean dust or improve airflow. Cool and steady wins.

When you've already done the free wins — drivers, settings, cleaning, background apps — and you're still hardware-limited at the resolution you want, that's the upgrade signal. Tweaks have a ceiling; sometimes the honest answer is a new part. Optimize first, then invest.

Often, yes — when a game needs more VRAM than your GPU has, it drops to lower-res textures or pops them in late. Lowering texture quality or resolution eases the pressure. If it's chronic at the settings you love, that's a hardware ceiling talking.

It can — an underpowered or failing PSU may cause random shutdowns or instability under heavy gaming load. It's worth ruling out if you crash specifically during demanding scenes. When in doubt with power, lean toward caution and a quality unit.